monsterpiece42

Cool write up!

I recommend you play TRAIL OUT, which is a spiritual successor to the best FLATOUT games. I like it a lot and would love to hear your thoughts!

I work in a PC repair shop and I run my tool stick on this way. By the way, you can just put a folder in your Ventoy and store non-iso files so you can have portable apps and so on.

• Acronis (can clone to reduced size drives unlike clonezilla which can only clone to equal or bigger)
• MemTest86 & MemTest86+ (+ is the FOSS one. Recommend both because sometimes one won’t work)
• Don’t forget that you can put other stuff in a Ventoy, not just .isos. I have shitlods of utilities in a folder beside all the .isos.
• Tons more but I just woke up for work. I will make this list much longer when I get there of I can remember to

Edit: ADHD did ADHD things. Here’s some more stuff. A lot of it is Windows-centric because that’s what we specialize in. ISOs:

• PC Unlocker (Windows password remover, paid)
• Gandalf’s Windows Preboot (similar to Hirans, but modern. Paid.)

Utilities:

• CrystalDiskInfo (SMART checks and more on SSDs)
• CrystalDiskMark (SSD benchmark)
• FastCopy (Windows copy utility. Free)
• HDTunePro (v5.00 specifically. After this, license binds to a single machine. HDD SMART checks, benchmark, secure erase, sector scans, and more.)
• OCCT (CPU, GPU, Memory, PSU, and other checks and stress tests. Top-tier tool.)
• F6 Drivers (drivers for NVMe detection on some laptops)
• Spacesniffer (visual representation of disk utilization. Similar to WinDirStat, but looks nicer/runs quicker imo. Free.)

Yeah basically a kneecaped PC with horrible data policy. Example, if you have a game with a 3rd party save/account like a lot of games do, Sony owns it and you can not migrate it to other platforms. I bought my nephew a gaming PC and he lost about 2000hrs of progress in Apex because Sony owns his account.

I’m not even a snob against consoles, just Sony sucks balls these days. I’d go with an Xbox but by then you’re basically buying a PC… Although you can prob get a cheaper price on an Xbox especially if you’re not building your own machine.

Oh right on, I didn’t realize rsync was just a differential copy–thays dope! I hope I didn’t come off paranoid lol… I work in a PC repair shop (mostly Windows machines) and I am not used to the average consumer giving a cleaver answer about backups and drive maintenance.

Congratulations again on the new machine. Hope it treats you well!

So about that. I don’t use rsync, but any regular bulk reads/writes will wear an SSD quickly!

What I meant was, if your drive(a) isn’t new with the new build, I would recommend it. I’ve been seeing failure rates on SSDs with hard use (like weekly backups) at only the 3-5 year mark. And usually when they die its all at once.

This is your answer, OP.

As a backup you can have a VM with Windows and the full apps if you need them (like Access for instance).

I like your build a lot. Don’t forget to move your OS to another drive via clone or something occasionally… Your old drive will wear out eventually. If it’s SSD, they often just work until they just don’t, so it’s not like the old days when an HDD would just slow down and give you a warning.

Cheers!

What are your needs? I work in a PC shop and answer this question everyday lol

Could be. I do have some significant Thinkpad experience (going back to the IBM days) and I do know that they will not alter the model number regardless of what’s in the machine, but you can pull a build sheet from their website with the serial number. Do you know if your HPs could have had this happen? Was your distributor HP or elsewhere? (Not hating, just curious!)

Capacity loss over time is a decent idea. The 2nd Gen machine has an 11th Gen chip, vs 10th Gen in the Gen 1, and quiet possibly is able to burn more power quicker as well. Thinkpad power consumption is also definable in the BIOS or Vantage software for many of them, so those settings all could vary.

Normally I’d be happy to help troubleshoot this sort of thing but frankly I’m not sure OP was looking to chat.

You should contact Lenovo and let them know their spec sheets are wrong. Because they say exactly what I just said.

Not my problem if you have aftermarket modifications to them.

I have a T580 and a T15g2 and the T580 is 100% a more rugged build–not even close.

The T15 is way lighter, so maybe that feels like stiffness?

G1s do not just “have brighter screens” than Gen 2. Those are spec-able options.

G1 had three screens, 250nit, 300nit, 500nit (4k only)

G2 had three screens, 300nit, 300nit, 600nit (4k only)

Both have the same 57wh battery. Not sure what you’re talking about there.

I had the same laugh. So tone-deaf.

I mean it pretty clearly says that User insights will be put into development and user benefit is first.

…will that happen? Well. Probably not. But I hope so.

This sounds like it was strictly the fault of the USB load. If you make a UEFI USB (you should use Ventoy, it’s great btw) all you would need to do is shut off Secure Boot and install.

Most bootable drives don’t support Secure Boot. You turn it off, do the install, and turn it back on if you want it. I personally just leave it off.

Outside of those caveats everything you described is industry-standard stuff. Nothing to do with Lenovo.